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                  THE POWER SUPPLY  
                  
                  Page 1    Page 2 
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       TESTING A POWER SUPPLY 
       One of the most difficult things to do is 
       test the maximum current capability of a power supply.  
       The easiest thing to do is to connect it to a project and see if it operates 
       correctly, but of you are designing a power supply for general use, you will need to 
       know its capabilities.  
       There are 4 important features (parameters) you need to check: 
        
       1. The output voltage 
       2. The ripple 
       3. The current capability, and 
       4. The maximum short-term current. 
       
        
       There are two ways to test a power supply: 
        
       1. A Dynamic load - such as an amplifier, computer etc. 
       2. A Static Load - also called a DUMMY LOAD.  
        
       
       We will now cover these 5 things: 
        
       MEASURING THE OUTPUT VOLTAGE: 
       
       
       
       You can measure the output VOLTAGE of a power 
       supply with a multimeter as show in the following diagram:
         
       Measuring the output 
       voltage of a power supply. 
       
       The power supply should be connected to a project. The reading on the 
       multimeter will give an accurate indication of the rail voltage under 
       load.  
        
       MEASURING 
       THE OUTPUT CURRENT: 
       
       
       You CANNOT measure the output current with an ammeter: 
       
         
       You cannot measure the output current  
       of a power supply via this method 
       
       The ammeter places a SHORT-CIRCUIT on the output of the power supply and 
       it will give a false reading.  
       Some powers supplies will shut down completely and others will 
       try to drive the maximum "designed-current" through the "short-circuit." 
       The 3-terminal regulator will get very hot and may be damaged.  
        
        
       The only way to measure the output current is to add a low-value 
       resistor in the positive line. The resistance must be less than 0.1ohm. 
       (0R1  brown-black-silver-gold). Two 0R1 resistors in parallel will 
       produce 0.05 ohms. When 1 amp is flowing, the voltage across the 
       combination will be 50mV. Use a multimeter switched to mV scale and 
       measure the voltage across the resistor(s).  
       The following diagram shows this procedure: 
       
         
       Measuring the output current 
       
       There are three reasons why this method is the best: 
       1. Most multimeters have a fairly high internal resistance (comparatively 
       speaking) on the amps range and this creates a voltage drop when 
       measuring current.  
       2. Few multimeters have a 0-1 amp range. Most have 0-200mA or 0-500mA or 
       0-10amp. These are not suitable when measuring 0-1 amp. 
       3. Our method of measurement creates the smallest voltage drop to the 
       project and thus 
       the most-accurate reading is obtained.  
       If the project receives a lower voltage, it will draw a lower current and 
       thus the reading will be inaccurate. The 50mV drop across the resistors 
       in the power rail is a known value and you can add a similar value to see 
       the effect on the current. It will not be a linear decline but our method 
       will produce the smallest voltage-drop when measuring 0-1amp.  
        
        
        
       DAMAGING A POWER SUPPLY 
       The only way you can damage a power supply is by overloading it. Excess 
       current will heat up the components and they will fail. This can apply to the 
       transformer, diodes, regulator (either chip or transistor) and any 
       fusible resistors. It can also be due to inadequate heatsinking of the 
       regulator.  
       Overloading can take many forms. A high input voltage will create excess 
       heating. 
       Excess output current will create over-heating and shorting the 
       output can create excess heating.  
       Under normal conditions, power supplies do not fail. Electronic 
       components are amazingly reliable and robust. If a component fails 
       more than once, you need to look into the possibility of a spike, excess 
       current or inadequate cooling. A dry joint on the PC board can create 
       excess heating this can damage the component.  
        
        
       
       MEASURING THE RIPPLE 
       The ripple on the input or output of a power supply can only be 
       interpreted 
       with a CRO. 
       You must SEE the waveform to understand if and why it is causing a 
       problem. There is no definitive answer to the allowable amount of ripple 
       or "dip" a project will accept without producing a problem.
       Some circuits are extremely critical and others are not affected at all.
        
       Some digital circuits are tolerant to glitches and dips but audio stages are critical as they are amplifying anything coming 
       from a previous stage.  
       Any ripple on the power rail will be amplified by subsequent stages. 
       Most stages have a gain of  50 - 100 and two stages will amplify ripple 
       as low as 1mV to produce noticeable hum.  
        
        
       MEASURING THE MAXIMUM 
       SHORT-TERM CURRENT 
       This is very difficult to measure. You really need to connect the power 
       supply to a project and monitor the output with a CRO. Nothing is more 
       accurate than using a "real" load.  
       "Instantaneous current" (short-term current) is very important. Many 
       power supplies need to supply 10's of amps or 100's of amps for a very 
       short period.  
       The output power of most amplifiers is measured for a very short period 
       of time and that's how they arrive at very high wattage values.  
       To be able to deliver an extremely high current for a short period of 
       time, a power supply needs very high-value electrolytics on the output.
        
       It is the electrolytics that deliver the high current. To determine the 
       capability of a power supply, connect the amplifier and listen to the output. If you are happy with the 
       results, the power supply is doing its job.  
       If you detect distortion, place the CRO on the power rail.  
       If the voltage is dipping, add another electrolytic, preferably near the 
       output of the project (near the speakers).  
       Monitor the improvement.  
       If the "dipping" is not fixed, the fault may lie in the regulator or the 
       transformer.  
       You have to decide if the fault has always been present or if it has just 
       developed.  
       You have to work out if something has to be "fixed" "changed" or 
       "re-designed."
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       
       CONNECTING A DUMMY LOAD 
       A power supply can be tested with a dummy load such as a high-power 
       resistor or globe.  
       Most power supplies do not deliver full rated output on a continuous 
       basis. The demand is constantly rising and falling. A dummy load will put 
       a constant demand on the supply and you have to be careful not to 
       over-heat anything.  
       Once you have decided on the value of the dummy load, you will need a power resistor or 
       a globe.
        
       There is one major problem with a globe. It requires about 6 times the 
       normal current to get it to start to glow. This is because the filament 
       is cold and its resistance is only one-sixth the operating resistance.
        
       Many power supplies will not be able to deliver this current and  a globe will not 
       illuminate. You may think the power supply is faulty - so don't choose a 
       globe.   
	
       
        
  
       
	   
       
       The best dummy load for a power supply is a high-wattage resistor. The 
       resistor shown in the diagram will dissipate about 4 watts. Keep it away 
       from the bench-top as it will get very hot and damage any polished 
       surfaces.  
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       
         
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       
       Monitor the temperature of the regulator and diodes with your finger to 
       make sure they do not get too hot.  
       Make sure you don't keep the dummy load connected too long as it can very 
       easily overload the power supply.  
  
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       
       
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       PROTECTING A POWER SUPPLY  
       A power supply can be protected from overload (such as a short-circuit) 
       by adding a globe to the positive rail. Make sure the globe has the 
       voltage rating of the rail.  
       If the globe is rated at 12v/18watt, it will allow up to 1 amp to flow 
       without illuminating and if a short-circuit occurs, the current will be 
       limited to 3 amps.  
       This safety-feature is handy when experimenting with a high-current power 
       supply (or car battery) as a short-circuit can allow hundreds of amps to 
       flow and completely vaporize fine wires. 
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       
         
         
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
        
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       FAULT FINDING 
       Most of the following problems apply to 3-terminal regulator and "power 
       transistor" power 
       supplies. They are the most common and give a number of problems due to 
       the heat developed in some of the components.  
       The first components to check are always the electrolytics. They play a very big 
       part in the operation of any power supply and can even cause complete failure. 
       The give trouble because energy is passing in and out and this creates 
       heat. The heat produces excess pressure and this forces microscopic 
       particles through the seal and they eventually dry out.
        
       Simply replace or bridge all of them with equivalent values and see if the output improves.  
       Another common fault is one of the diodes in a bridge breaking down under 
       load. This will produce a lot of hum and the only way 
       to detect it is to measure the temperature with your 
       finger (if the diodes are separate components). A diode that breaks-down under load will measure ok when cold. 
       This is a very difficult to detect if you don't know what to look for. Simply solder 4 diodes across 
       the bridge and see if the fault is fixed.  
       Another fault is thermal shut-down due to excess input voltage.  
       If the output voltage of the power supply can be varied, the input 
       voltage will have to be 5v higher than the maximum required output 
       voltage.  
       When the output voltage is low, the input voltage will be proportionally 
       very high and the power supply will only be able to 
       deliver a low current before thermal shut-down takes place.  
		 
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       NOW  -  
		THE LATEST IN POWER SUPPLY REGULATORS .  .  . 
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       A new type of regulator has just 
		been released on the market.  
		It is very similar to the 7805 voltage regulator but it has an 
		efficiency as high as 97% and does not require a heatsink. 
		The following write-up has been provided by
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
      Mark Riley of: 
		 
		Cutter Electronics 
		5 Highgate Way 
		Rowville, Vic 3178 
		Australia 
		Tel 03 9753 9911 
		Fax 03 9753 9455 
		Email: mark.riley@cutter.com.au 
		Mobile:0417 540 359 
		Web: www.cutter.com.au
		
			
			
			PDF Datasheet and selection guide 
		
		   
		 
		 
			
			Everyone knows this situation. A regulated voltage supply is 
			required.  
		In itself, there is nothing difficult. Not much board space is 
			available - no problem. The input voltage supply is unstabilized and 
			can vary over a wide range. The load is also not exactly steady. 
			But, what if everything must be accommodated in a small case without 
			ventilation and no heat-sinking can be used? Or if the regulator 
			losses must be kept low because the unit is battery powered and you 
			can't afford to waste precious battery life as heat? Then it already 
			looks more difficult using the standard off-the-shelf linear 
			regulator solutions….  
			
			The remedy is the new switch-mode converter range from RECOM that 
			unites both the specifications and the simple application of the 
			ubiquitous 78xx linear regulators with an extremely high efficiency 
			of up to 97% to give a minuscule heat generation that avoids all of 
			the physical and mechanical problems associated with heat sinks and 
			waste heat transportation.
			 
		Just like standard linear regulators, the R-78 series has a drop-out 
			voltage of 1.5v (this is the difference between the input and output 
		voltage) and an input voltage range that extends up to 34V: 
			an input range of up to 7:1!  
		All of the R-78xx-0.5 series deliver an output current of up to 500mA 
		and R-78xx-1.0 types with up to 1A output current. 
			The output voltages are available off the shelf in all of the usual 
			values of 1.8V, 2.5V, 3.3V, 5V, 9V and 12V as standard.  
		Non-standard 
			values can very simply be set in the production by special request.
			However, these are not the only advantages of this new converter. 
			Another attention-grabber is the design: the R-78xx-0.5 is 
			accommodated in a SIP3-plastic housing with the measurements of only 
			11.5 x 7.5 x 10.2mm, therefore approximating the footprint of a 78 
			series linear-regulator in TO220 casing without a heat-sink but with 
			a clearance gap to the other components on the board. The pin-out is 
			identical: Pin 1 is the input voltage, Pin 2 the common and Pin 3 
			the output. 
			An external trim of the output voltage by means of a fourth pin will 
			be available as an option in the coming months, as well as a 79xx 
			series for negative outputs as a counterpart to the analogue 79xx 
			regulators and implementations for both types in SMD designs.
			The RECOM R-78xx-0.5 is continuous short circuit protected and 
			incorporates a thermal shutdown protection function that switches 
			off the converter if the internal temperature exceeds 160°C.  
		The 
			short circuit protection circuit restricts the input current with a 
			shorted output to typically 25mA and so helps to avoid further 
			damage to the supply circuitry during fault conditions. The 
			operating temperature range is from -40°C to +70°C with full load, 
			and extends from +70°C to +85°C with a derating to 80% of maximum 
			load.
			The outstanding efficiency of up to 97% comes mainly through the use 
			of a switch-mode design using the Buck principle.  
		The 30 years of 
			experience of RECOM in the design and development of DC/DC 
			converters has enabled the high specification of this non-isolated 
			step down converter, in particular the reduction of internal losses 
			to only a few percent. This switch-mode design inserts itself 
			seamlessly into the recently introduced RECOM INNOLINE as a 
			supplement to the non-isolated point-of-load converters with similar 
			high efficiencies and consequently expands the range for lower power 
			and miniaturised designs. It presents itself as ideal supplement for 
			distributed power supplies, where together with the isolating DC/DC 
			converters from the RECOM POWERLINE and the R-5xxx, R-6xxx and 
			R-7xxx series from the RECOM INNOLINE, allow supply voltages to be 
			down-converted as close to the load as possible. Consequently the 
			entire distributed power supply chain can be supported by RECOM 
			products.
			A frequent and normally justifiable point of criticism concerning 
			switch mode designs over linear designs is the noise generated on 
			the outputs as well as the disturbances reflected back into the 
			input supply. The RECOM R-78xx-0.5 series has a relatively high 
			operating frequency of around 300kHz which is easy to filter out 
			internally and so generates very low inherent noise, as the first 
			EMC-tests confirmed. The switch-mode converter requires no external 
			components and has typical values of ripple and noise of 30-50mVpp, 
			which can be even further reduced with external filters. RECOM 
			recommends that designers who need very low ripple and noise levels 
			should insert low pass filters: a simple first order LC-low pass 
			output filter with a corner frequency of approximately 10% of the 
			operating frequency brings the ripple and noise levels down to 5mVpp 
			or below. 
			Also the reflected noise (disturbances that a switch-mode design 
			generates on its inputs due to its switching frequency) are 
			inherently very low with the R-78xx-0.5 and can be further 
			reduced with external filtering of the input supply. 
			The compromises that a designer must make in order to insert a 
			switch mode regulator are therefore not great, as in most cases the 
			standard application with no external components is perfectly 
			acceptable.
			 
		Of course, this switched mode converter won't replace completely the 
			analogue linear regulator that is used the world over. For one 
			thing, the price is a deciding factor. A linear regulator can be 
			bought even in small quantities for a few tens of cents while any 
			switched-mode solution will always be many times more expensive. But 
			the total costs needs to be examined: input and output capacitors 
			are recommended for analogue linear regulators, but these components 
			are already integrated into the standard switching regulator design 
			and while the switching regulator needs no heat sink, the linear 
			regulator requires one in most cases which both uses up valuable 
			board space and costs money and assembly time.
			However, this is not all: presuppose that the circuit is 
			placed in a small, non-metallic, airtight case - then a heat sink 
			rapidly loses its effectiveness.  
		Even a large heat sink will become 
			useless if air convection and air circulation are blocked. The only 
			help here is to solve the problem at the root cause. If the 
			regulator is highly efficient with low internal losses, then almost 
			no heat is generated that needs to be taken care of. Here, the 
			switching regulator comes to the fore because it generates so little 
			waste heat in the first place.
			If one now compares the entire costs of a power supply solution - 
			i.e. switched mode regulator vs. linear regulator + heat sink + 
			assembly + maybe forced cooling with fans, as well as the further 
			expenditure for external components, then clearly the cost 
			relationship is not so unbalanced.  
		Possible problems in design, 
			production and assembly of heat-pipe or chilled circuits and the 
			question of whether it makes any sense at all for sub-15W supplies 
			are left to the interested reader and will not be discussed further 
			here.
			If all of the above points mentioned above in this article are 
			considered, even if only some of the aspects apply, then maybe the 
			alternative of using a switching voltage regulator makes more sense 
			than at first meets the eye . 
		 
		THE TRANSFORMERLESS POWER SUPPLY 
       	There is another type of power supply. It is called a transformerless 
		power supply.  
		It is a power supply that does not use a transformer.  
		Let me say from the start, this type of power supply is very dangerous 
		and can supply only a very small current.  
		It is not a power supply I suggest for any type of application as the 
		project is effectively "LIVE." 
		Even though a project may be operating on 5v or 12v, any component on 
		the project will have a potential of 120v or 240v when referenced to 
		earth.  
		In other words, touching any component in or on the power supply AND the chassis of a radiator or 
		toaster, will result in a shock of 120v or 240v AC.  
		I should say "up to" 240v (but since we are talking about AC 
		voltages, this voltage is really up to about 340v) and although the transformerless power supply 
		will not deliver the high current that can be delivered 
		from the mains, some transformerless supplies will deliver more 
		than 100mA and it only requires 30 - 50mA to deliver a lethal shock.  
		The Earth Leakage Detector, fitted to all new homes, trips at 15mA, so 
		you can see the danger of getting a 240v shock! 
		 
		It may surprise you, but a transformerless power supply is ideally 
		suited to high-voltage applications.  
		A transformerless power supply can be created using diodes and 
		capacitors that INCREASES the supply voltage. This type of circuit is 
		called a voltage multiplier, and by using multiple stages, the voltage 
		can be doubled, tripled and even increased ten or more times. The end 
		result is a very high voltage and if this voltage is delivered to a 
		pointed conductor, the electronics will stream off and produce an 
		"electric wind." The "electricity" will ionise the air and cause any 
		particles of matter in the air to join together and "drop out." 
		These circuit are often called "air fresheners."
		
		  
		 A Voltage Multiplier
		
		But we are mainly talking about using a transformerless power supply to 
		deliver 5v to 12v.  
		You may think this type of power supply using capacitors is 
		insulated or isolated from the mains. But this is not so.  
		A capacitor has a "resistance" - called CAPACITIVE REACTANCE and this 
		resistance depends on the frequency of the supply. In our case 
		the frequency is 50 or 60Hz and the capacitive reactance 
		will be large, however the capacitor will be able to deliver a shock and 
		in some cases this can be fatal.  
		If the transformerless supply is connected to the "mains socket" around 
		the "correct" way, the shock potential will be only 12v, but you cannot 
		guarantee how the project will be connected.  
		
		  
		 In the top diagram, the voltage of the power supply is 12v. But in 
		the lower diagram, if you touch the 12v line and earth, a totally lethal 
		shock will result. This is because the "neutral" line has been "lifted 
		above earth." The "Neutral" is actually just 12v below "Active." 
		If the project is totally sealed, you can consider using a 
		transformerless design. Otherwise it is out of the question.  
		 
		Now we come to the current capability of a transformerless design.  
		It is the current that determines the "size of the components." 
		By size I mean the physical size - the wattage dissipating capability.
		 
		Transformerless designs are very inefficient. They waste a lot of energy 
		and accordingly they get very hot.  
		Transformerless designs have very high ripple. To be more accurate, they 
		are really only designed for a constant current - a steady current. 
		Equipment such as amplifiers require a wide range of current. The idle 
		current may be 10mA but the peak current may be 150mA. This is totally 
		unsuitable for a transformerless design as the voltage will drop when 
		the current increases and distortion will result.  
		There are two ways to design a transformerless circuit. One design uses 
		resistors and the other uses capacitors.  
		Both designs have the same losses and thus they both dissipate the same 
		heat and they both  
		get "just as hot." 
		When designing a "capacitor supply" you must consider the "working 
		voltage" of the  
		capacitor(s) as well as the "ripple current." 
		For a 240v supply, the capacitor should be rated "400v." You may not be 
		able to obtain the ripple current of a certain type of capacitor on a specification 
		sheet and the only way to 
		determine the suitability is to test it for a period of 
		time and make sure you are able to touch the case. It must not get too 
		hot to touch. If the capacitor is physically very small, it will get 
		very hot.  
		There are basically 4 designs as shown in the diagrams below: 
		 
		  
		 Two circuits can be designed around a capacitor as the "current 
		limiting device" and two can be designed around a resistor as the 
		current liming device.  
		The circuits above are only basic examples.  
		 
		 THE CAPACITOR SUPPLY 
		 
		
		The "Power Supply" is the positive and negative lines above and below 
		the block called the LOAD.  
		You will need 5 things to create a CAPACITOR SUPPLY: 
		1. A Rectifier diode or diodes, 
		2. A Current Limiting Resistor,  
		3. A Capacitor to deliver (or limit) the current to the "Supply" 
		- the feeder capacitor, 
		4. A Storage or Filter Capacitor (usually an electrolytic). 
		5. A Bleed Resistor, and 
		6. A Load 
		 
		The diagram below shows these 6 items:
		 
		  
		The 6 items of a Capacitor 
		Power Supply 
  
		 
		We will now cover each item. 
		 
		THE RECTIFIER 
		The rectifier is a single diode or set of diodes that will change AC 
		waveform to pulses as shown in the diagram below. The full wave 
		rectifier will allow both the positive and negative excursions to appear 
		on the output. The half-wave (single diode) will only allow the positive 
		part of the waveform to appear on the output.  
		 
		  
		 
		THE CURRENT LIMIT RESISTOR 
		This resistor prevents spikes from the mains entering the "Supply" 
		and it limits the current entering the storage capacitor (electrolytic). 
		This resistor reduces the efficiency of the circuit but is a handy 
		inclusion. It is generally 470R for 4 x 0.1u feeder capacitors and 2k2 
		for a single 0.1u feeder capacitor.  
		Why have these values been chosen? The reason is the voltage drop. The 
		voltage drop across a 470R when 30mA is flowing, will be the same as the 
		voltage drop across a 2k2 when 7mA is flowing.  
		 
		  
		 
		This voltage drop is the "buffer" or the "safety valve" that allows 
		spikes to be present on the input and are prevented from appearing on 
		the "supply" side of the project.   
		 
		 
		THE FEEDER CAPACITOR 
		The capacitor that delivers energy to the "Supply" is called the "feeder 
		capacitor." Obviously no electrons or "current " or "electricity" flows 
		through the capacitor as it is an "open circuit." So the electrons 
		that charge the electrolytic must come via the 0v rail. The way the 
		feeder capacitor works is very simple.  
		It's a bit like a magician drawing a flower out of the ground by 
		"magnetic attraction." 
		As the incoming voltage rises, it raises the left side of the capacitor 
		and this pulls the right side up. But the voltage on the right side is 
		only a small fraction of the left side. That's the best a small 
		capacitor can do. As the capacitor is increased in value, the voltage on 
		the right-side is increased.  
		A 100n capacitor will deliver 7mA from a full-wave rectifier or 3.5mA 
		from a half-wave rectifier. 
		This value of current relates to a 12v power supply, operating from 240v 
		mains. If the voltage of the power supply is higher, 
		the current will be slightly less.   
		The current delivered by a capacitor is worked out by "Ohm's Law," which 
		is:  
		I = V/R  
		where   
		
		I is the value in amps, 
		 
		V is the voltage across the 
		capacitor and   
		R  is the resistance of the 
		capacitor. A capacitor has a "resistance to current" called capacitive 
		reactance with the symbol Xc. In our case the 100n capacitor at 50Hz, 
		has a capacitive reactance of 33k and this will allow the same current 
		to flow as a 33k resistor.  
		If the load takes 7mA, the 100n capacitor will only be able to raise the 
		voltage across the load to about 12v. If the current taken by the load 
		is less than 7mA, the "supply" voltage will be higher. If the current 
		taken by the load is more than 7mA, the supply voltage will be lower.
		 
		The actual voltage of the supply is "fine tuned" by adjusting the value 
		of the BLEED RESISTOR.  
		 
		  
		 Two capacitors in parallel will double the current. You can use 4 
		capacitors to get 30mA. 
		You will also need a 470R resistor to limit voltage-surges. These 
		"surges" are the natural charging current as the AC voltage rises 
		to charge the capacitor. The capacitor we are talking about is the 
		STORAGE CAPACITOR or filter capacitor.  
		 
		THE STORAGE CAPACITOR 
		The storage capacitor is designed to hold each of the pulses of 
		energy and accumulate them to produce the maximum voltage the circuit 
		will deliver.  
		This voltage is called the "supply voltage."  
		In more-technical terms, the electrolytic reduces the impedance of the 
		"supply" and allows a higher current to be drawn for very short periods 
		of time.  
		This needs more explanation.  
		A "higher current" is a current greater than the current entering the 
		electrolytic. Suppose this is 7mA. And suppose the voltage on the 
		electrolytic is 12v.  
		If a higher current is drawn by the load, the voltage across the 
		electrolytic will drop. Suppose it drops to 10v. This is the purpose of 
		the electrolytic. The actual value of current will depend on the value 
		of the electrolytic and the drop in voltage that will occur.  
 
		 
		  
		 The actual value of the Storage Capacitor 
		(electrolytic) will depend on the current delivered by the "Supply" and 
		the allowable voltage drop of the supply, when it is delivering maximum 
		current. The electrolytic can be 10u, 47u or 100u.  
		 THE BLEED RESISTOR 
		The power supply needs a "bleed resistor" so that if the load decreases, 
		or is removed, the terminal voltage of the supply will not rise to 240v.
		 
		The bleed current should be at least 30% to 50% of the current required by the 
		project and this must be added to the current required by the project. 
		This adds more complexity to the design and more heat, but without it, 
		the "supply" voltage will rise to dangerous levels when the current 
		drops to zero.  
		To determine the value for the Bleed Resistor, the easiest way is to 
		experiment with values until the correct situation is obtained.  
		Working out the value mathematically is very complex, but you can see 
		that if a bleed resistor is not included, the "Supply" voltage will rise 
		to 240v when the load current reduces to zero.  
		This will destroy the electrolytic (storage capacitor) and possibly 
		destroy the sensitive components in the load.  
		If the Bleed Resistor takes 50% of the current required by the Load, it 
		will take 2mA, while the Load will take 4mA. This makes a total of 6mA. 
		If the Load is removed, the "Supply" will rise from 12v to 36v and you 
		can see this is a dangerous value.  
		 
		THE LOAD 
		This is the item you are "powering." It might be a microcontroller, 
		a LED, transistor circuit or similar.  
		Some loads require a constant current while others need a varying 
		current.  
		This type of power supply is not designed for high currents or widely 
		varying current.   
		 
		 
		DETERMINING THE VALUES 
		 
		The values for the items such as the Current Limit Resistor, Feeder 
		Capacitor, Storage Capacitor and Bleed Resistor, can be worked out 
		mathematically, but the simplest way is to build a power supply and 
		experiment with the values. 
		A simple "safe" 240v power supply can be made by connecting two 15VA 
		transformers "back-to-back," so the output is 240v with a limited 
		current.  
		This is called a "safe" power supply in that it isolated from the mains 
		and will not blow a fuse if momentarily shorted. It also allows items 
		such as CRO's and earthed soldering irons to be connected without 
		tripping the circuit-breaker. You can also work on the supply without 
		extreme danger, if you know what you are doing. Even a set of 15VA 
		transformers (15 volt-amp - the AC way of saying wattage) is enough to 
		be lethal, so don't underestimate the potential of zapping you.  
		The two transformers are 
		connected as shown in the diagram below: 
  
		 
		  
		 
		 
		The following circuit is an example of a low-current capacitor-fed power 
		supply.  
 
		
		  
		  
		 
		A CAPACITOR-FED POWER SUPPLY Each 
		100n "X2" capacitor (these are Mains rated capacitors) will deliver 7mA to each 
		power supply (the 12v supply and the 5v supply). The only problem is the two supplies must be kept separate 
		and no component can have a DC path from one supply to the other.  
		Each supply will deliver 21mA and obviously this can be slightly higher 
		for short periods of time.  
		Each zener needs about 3mA to keep it in conduction, so the output is 
		18mA.  
		Each additional 100n mains capacitor will add 7mA to the outputs.  
		The 680R resistors provide a "buffering" for the zeners to prevent them 
		being damaged by spikes.  
		Both power supplies must be connected.  
		If the lower is removed, the top supply will not generate any voltage. 
		Here is how the supply works: 
		Assume the centre-line of the circuit is connected to the neutral of the 
		mains. (It does not matter which way the circuit is connected. Either 
		way, the circuit is considered "live" and dangerous. It is only to be 
		used for a project that is fully housed and insulated from any human 
		contact.) 
		The Active input will travel minus 340v below the neutral line and then 
		340v above the neutral.  
		This voltage is obtained by 240v x √2 = 240 x 1.414 = 340v. 
		The 240v is the RMS value and simply means the voltage equivalent to DC. 
		This comes from the original supply being DC and when AC was introduced, 
		people wanted to know the voltage needed to heat up a kettle of water in 
		the same time as the original DC voltage, when say 5amps was flowing.
		 
		340v is dangerous and that's why this supply is dangerous.  
		The capacitors are initially uncharged.  
		 
		  
		  
		The "Mains" 
		 
		 A complete cycle of the mains consists of 4 parts as 
		shown in the diagram above. The active line follows path "A" in the 
		diagram above and this charges the lower 100u electrolytic, via the 
		lower power diode. When it reaches the lowest point on the curve, the 
		capacitors are fully charged and will produce a voltage across them equal 
		to 340v minus 5v and minus the voltage developed across the lower 680R.
		 
		As the mains voltage passes around the bottom of the curve on the 
		diagram, you can think of the capacitors as a 330v battery and the top 
		of the battery is the point connected to the two 680R resistors.  
		The top of the "battery" rises say 1v higher than the join of the two 
		resistors and it is effectively 4v away fro the centre-line of the 
		circuit.  
		This means the lower power diode will not conduct any current and thus 
		the top power diode  starts to conduct.  
		All the energy in the 3 capacitors will now be passed through the top 
		power diode and into the 100u electrolytic.  In other words, all 
		the 330v at a low current will be "squeezed" into 100u and produce a 
		lower voltage at a higher current. This is the amazing feature of a 
		capacitor and this have never been mentioned before in any text book. 
		This is the "secret" to the operation of the "caps." 
		This continues until 
		the mains-waveform reaches 12.6v above the centre-line of the circuit. At this 
		point the capacitors have exactly 12.6v on each side and no current 
		passes in or out of them. They are fully discharged.  
		The waveform rises further and now the capacitors begin to charge in the 
		opposite direction via the 12v zener. This charging current also passes 
		through the top 100u and "tops it up." 
		The waveform now reaches the top of the cycle and the caps are fully 
		charged.  
		As the mains passes over the top of the cycle, the bottom of the fully 
		charged caps drop below 12v (think of the caps as a 340v battery as 
		before) and the top diode ceases to conduct. Nothing 
		happens until the voltage drops 12v + 0.6v + 5v + 0.6v and then the 
		lower diode starts to conduct. There is also a small voltage drop across 
		the lower 680R resistor.  
		Notice the 18v gap between the top and bottom. If you want higher 
		voltage supplies, this gap becomes noticeable and the capacitors will 
		not charge fully and thus the current they can deliver, will reduce. 
		There is also some importance about the equal voltages on the two 
		supplies as a very high voltage on one supply will not charge the cap 
		fully to deliver the energy to the other supply.  
		
		
		 The advantage of the capacitor supply above is the fact that the 
		capacitors do not get hot. If they were replaced by a set of resistors, 
		the losses would be considerable, as you will see:  
  
		 
		 
		THE RESISTIVE POWER SUPPLY 
		 
		 
		  
		 
		 
		When designing a resistive power supply, the value of the "dropper 
		resistor" is obtained by taking 12v from 240v = 230v. This is the 
		voltage across the dropper resistor.  
		Let us allow 20mA current through the dropper resistor.  
		The value of the 
		dropper resistor is:
		230/0.02 = 11,500 ohms = 11k5.   
		The wattage of the resistor = 4.6watts  The resistor can be made up 
		of a number of resistors placed at different locations on the board to 
		improve heat 
		dissipation.  
		You can see the advantage of a capacitor-fed power supply. 
		 
        
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       	 
		THE PLUG PACK  - 
		WALL WART 
		A cheap solution to 
		providing power for a project is a plug pack. These come in two 
		different types. One type consists of a large transformer fitted in a 
		sealed case or box with two or three prongs to fit into a 110v or 240v 
		wall socket. These are good for some applications and are generally 
		limited to less than 1 amp.  
		They have some problems: 
		1. They get hot, 
		2. Produce hum in some audio equipment,  
		3. Produce an unreliable voltage  - too high or too low for the 
		project being supplied.  
		4. Difficult to connect to the wall socket - too large and takes up two 
		outlets. 
		 One of the biggest problems 
		with small transformers is a term called "regulation." This is situation 
		where the output voltage drops considerably, as more current is drawn 
		from the device.  
		The voltage may start at 12v under no-load and drop to 8v when full 
		current is drawn. Since the project requires 12v for operation, the 
		transformer is "overwound" with additional turns so that the final 
		voltage is 12v when full current is delivered.  
		This means the no-load voltage is about 12v + 4v = 16v. (and it can be 
		higher) 
		This is why these types of plug pack are not a good choice.  
		If your project takes a small current, it will be supplied with a 
		voltage above the recommended  value and it may be damaged.  
		The drop in voltage is due to two things.  
		1. The secondary winding has a small resistance and a voltage drop 
		occurs due to this.  
		2. But the main reason why the output voltage drops is due to magnetic 
		flux losses. This is also called "iron losses" and is due to some of the 
		magnetic flux generated by the primary winding being lost as heat in the 
		iron core and general losses as it passes from the primary winding 
		(where it is generated) to the secondary winding (where it cuts the 
		secondary turns).  Both the primary and secondary windings heat up 
		and create losses. All these combine to produce a transformer with POOR 
		REGULATION.  
		 A new type of plug pack is now available.  
		It is a switch-mode supply and is considerably lighter, smaller and has 
		a high output current with very low ripple and a reliable constant 
		voltage. These plug packs can also be cheaper than the older transformer 
		design (switch-mode supplies use a very small transformer as the supply 
		is operating at between 50kHz to 150kHz as compared to 50-60Hz for the 
		older transformer design). 
		They are also available in 2amp to 10amp rating and are up to 95% 
		efficient and do not get hot.  
   
		 
		PLUG PACK REGULATOR 
		If you have a plug pack that produces a voltage that 
		is too-high for a particular project or has has lot of hum, you can add 
		a circuit that will reduce the hum by a factor or 100 or more and turn 
		the plug pack into an adjustable output voltage.  
		See our project 
		PLUG PACK REGULATOR or
		Plug Pack 
		Regulator 
		 
		  
		 
		  
		 
		  
		
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
       CONCLUSION 
       Power supplies are very important to the correct operation of any 
       project.  
       It doesn't matter if the power supply is one button-cell or a 1000 watt 
       supply with multi outputs; the result is the same. It must be correctly 
       designed.  
       This discussion has covered many different types of power supplies and 
		shown how to design, test and select the right type of supply for your 
		particular application.  
		It's very handy to know how things work and how to service them but 
		remember that most power supplies are connected to the mains and this 
		require a lot of care when the parts are exposed.
	        
       
	
    	
	
        
		
       3-8-2010 
	        
       
	
    	
	
        
       
	        
       
	
    	
	
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